The Ice Cream Queen of Orchard Street by Susan
Jane Gilman relates the changes in America from the early 1900's through the 1980’s
by focusing on an immigrant child who grows up to lead a business empire.
Fleeing persecution of Jews in Russia, Malka Treynovsky mistakenly
becomes Malka Bialystoker at Ellis Island, but that is
only the beginning of her transformation.
This trusting, naive child morphs into a shrewd, scheming businesswoman
- under indictment for tax evasion - named
Lillian Dunkle.
Like my own grandparents and in-laws who came to this country
as immigrants, Malka/Lillian works hard and seeks a better life for herself and
her family. Along the way, her life is touched by major events: New York
City’s tenements and a crippling accident; WWI and the Spanish flu; the Great Depression;
WWII; even 50's early TV shows for kids and the post-war growth of "fast food"
and franchises in America.
Susan Jane Gilman thoroughly researched this historical
novel and parallels the real life "rags to riches" story of Tom Carvel, a Greek
immigrant who revolutionized the ice cream industry. It was fascinating to read
about the development of ice cream flavors and the invention of soft serve ice cream, but the most surprising idea to me
was that in the 1940's ice cream was suspected of causing polio. More factual information is available in 97 Orchard: an Edible History of Five Immigrant Families in one New York Tenement by Jane Ziegelman.
The Ice Cream Queen of Orchard Street does
feel a little long in places (512 pages!), but this "darkly comic" novel has
potential as a Junior Theme selection. Certainly, it addresses the question of "What
does it mean to be American?" I found myself wondering how Lillian, who is such
a multi-faceted character, could be so street-smart and a-moral while also
being so trusting and repeatedly making poor choices. Her insecurity is understandable, however, when
we see how she is abandoned again and again by her families. She is crippled
both physically and emotionally, craving acceptance and yet ultimately rejects
those who truly care for her.
An ideal choice for book groups, The Ice Cream Queen
of Orchard Street offers much to discuss and debate: Who was the strongest
character? Lillian? Her husband? Someone
else? Was there a hero? Who really ran the ice cream empire? Were the
characters fooling others or themselves? And how does this reflect America’s
transformation over the same time period? Had the country become "small-minded
and ingrown and frightened" or not? Gilman raises that last issue and explores
it in the accompanying discussion guide. If you
want to be inspired by grit, entrepreneurial spirit, and resilience, to explore questions of ethics, and
like strong female characters in historical family sagas, order up The
Ice Cream Queen of Orchard Street for a delicious summertime treat.
